Casey and his old high school friend, TJ Minden, had been texting a lot, and fall break was fast approaching. It was the perfect storm for a spontaneous road trip to St. Louis, where TJ lives. In preparation we sent a barrage of emails to St. Louis venues. McGurks, Gramaphone, and Handlebar all said we were welcome to play. We were hoping to make a splash on the music scene.
We took my son, August, to my parents across town. He was looking forward to relaxing in their cozy home, while we set out on our impromptu tour.
We took my son, August, to my parents across town. He was looking forward to relaxing in their cozy home, while we set out on our impromptu tour.
An eight-hour drive later, we pulled up to TJ and Jill’s Hansel and Gretel style house. We put down our bags, exchanged hugs, petted the dogs, and headed to McGurks, an Irish pub in the Soulard District. At night in the French district, we could have been in New York City, or New Orleans, but it was definitely old world. McGurks has massive |
brick archways, and an extensive beer garden. An epically badass trio from Ireland were shredding effortlessly through traditional tunes while Casey and TJ were catching up over a few pints.
Back at the house, we descended into TJ’s basement sanctuary. It had comfy couches, an entertainment center, and an old-fashioned bar hand-built by TJ himself. We ended up spending many friendly hours there on our visit.
The first night TJ told us stories about his tour of duty in Iraq. We heard about his five-day caravan trek across Iraq to the base where he spent six months, about huge camel spiders, about the locals hired to fill thousands of sandbags only for the plastic to biodegrade quickly in the sun. As much as he told us, there is still a lot more he didn’t tell us.
The next day we were on our own while TJ and Jill were at work. We checked out the Delmar Loop and visited Meshuggah Coffee House. We had a tasty breakfast with good coffee. The owner and patrons were friendly and curious about our instrument cases, but early Friday afternoon was sleepy on the Delmar Loop. A couple elderly buskers played for the few passers by.
We drove toward downtown, looking for the action, and taking in the sights. The famous stainless steel Gateway Arch adds a surreal science fiction feel to an otherwise normal cityscape, like something out of a Space Odyssey. It is simple, awe-inspiring and beautiful. I knew from a childhood experience not to travel up the arch. The five-seater egg-shaped capsules that rotate and ratchet people up and down are a claustrophobic’s level seven nightmare.
Back at the house, we descended into TJ’s basement sanctuary. It had comfy couches, an entertainment center, and an old-fashioned bar hand-built by TJ himself. We ended up spending many friendly hours there on our visit.
The first night TJ told us stories about his tour of duty in Iraq. We heard about his five-day caravan trek across Iraq to the base where he spent six months, about huge camel spiders, about the locals hired to fill thousands of sandbags only for the plastic to biodegrade quickly in the sun. As much as he told us, there is still a lot more he didn’t tell us.
The next day we were on our own while TJ and Jill were at work. We checked out the Delmar Loop and visited Meshuggah Coffee House. We had a tasty breakfast with good coffee. The owner and patrons were friendly and curious about our instrument cases, but early Friday afternoon was sleepy on the Delmar Loop. A couple elderly buskers played for the few passers by.
We drove toward downtown, looking for the action, and taking in the sights. The famous stainless steel Gateway Arch adds a surreal science fiction feel to an otherwise normal cityscape, like something out of a Space Odyssey. It is simple, awe-inspiring and beautiful. I knew from a childhood experience not to travel up the arch. The five-seater egg-shaped capsules that rotate and ratchet people up and down are a claustrophobic’s level seven nightmare.
The scattered clouds, warm sun, the beginning of fall, were making us sleepy, an Afternoon Nap seemed like the perfect thing. Outback of TJ and Jill’s with the dogs sniffing around the gardens, lying in the sun on a slightly chilly day with a hat over my face, it was golden.
Our plan for that evening was to busk outside Cardinal Stadium for the playoff game. Busking in St. Louis is legal without any permits, as long as it’s on public property. Also, Mark, TJ’s brother, had gotten us a gig at Kilroy’s, a sports
Our plan for that evening was to busk outside Cardinal Stadium for the playoff game. Busking in St. Louis is legal without any permits, as long as it’s on public property. Also, Mark, TJ’s brother, had gotten us a gig at Kilroy’s, a sports
bar in the midst of all the chaos, as well as an after the game gig at Shamrocks Pub.
The streets were a sea of people dressed in red. Homegrown buskers had claimed the best spots, and reigned over large swaths of prime territory with amplification. Casey and I found a spot to play, in view of the Purina Headquarters. “Great Purina! It’s a sign!” I said, remembering the way the dogfood plant odor dominates Bricktown, where we sometimes busk. The people of St. Louis were kind, giving us lots of smiles. The most common feedback we got was, “Wow, that’s different!” TJ later explained, “Blues music prevails in St. Louis, I’m sure they just enjoy hearing something different.”
The streets were a sea of people dressed in red. Homegrown buskers had claimed the best spots, and reigned over large swaths of prime territory with amplification. Casey and I found a spot to play, in view of the Purina Headquarters. “Great Purina! It’s a sign!” I said, remembering the way the dogfood plant odor dominates Bricktown, where we sometimes busk. The people of St. Louis were kind, giving us lots of smiles. The most common feedback we got was, “Wow, that’s different!” TJ later explained, “Blues music prevails in St. Louis, I’m sure they just enjoy hearing something different.”
The people of Killroy’s were raucous; we played on their front porch until the game started. By then TJ, Jill, and their friend Abby were tired of fighting over barstools with other Cards fans, so we walked to Shamrocks a few blocks away to watch the game. The TVs and crowds were much smaller. We could have a conversation and drink a beer in peace. Killroys had been a real madhouse.
Shamrocks Pub is in a massive old brick building, nothing fancy. In it’s past it had been a convent, a bottling plant, and an advertising agency. The owner Pat, who loves musicians and music, gave us a tour of the upstairs. He shared his vision of turning it into an iconic music venue. It already had a wonderful very large wooden stage. I could understand how the space would make someone want to dream big.
In the seventh inning the Cardinals were locked in to win the game. We wanted to busk for the mass exodus from the stadium. We set up on a corner, in a light drizzle. At the end of the game rabid, drunken fans descended and rowdy madness ensued. The people were really unhinged. We retreated to Shamrocks, where it was safer.
Shamrocks Pub is in a massive old brick building, nothing fancy. In it’s past it had been a convent, a bottling plant, and an advertising agency. The owner Pat, who loves musicians and music, gave us a tour of the upstairs. He shared his vision of turning it into an iconic music venue. It already had a wonderful very large wooden stage. I could understand how the space would make someone want to dream big.
In the seventh inning the Cardinals were locked in to win the game. We wanted to busk for the mass exodus from the stadium. We set up on a corner, in a light drizzle. At the end of the game rabid, drunken fans descended and rowdy madness ensued. The people were really unhinged. We retreated to Shamrocks, where it was safer.
Mark showed up and encouraged us to start playing, so we did. The front and back doors were open and our sound rang out and folks started to pour in. Pat insisted that we step up onto a makeshift stage on top of an old beer conveyor belt.
Women and girls gathered around and danced like we were rock stars. Pat had hilarious Russian dance moves. It was a feel good moment.
Women and girls gathered around and danced like we were rock stars. Pat had hilarious Russian dance moves. It was a feel good moment.
We took a cab home, and hung out with TJ and the dogs in the basement, watching sci-fi movies until Casey was the last standing.
Saturday we all woke up late and with plans to take it easy. Toward evening we drove to Eureka, MO, an beautiful suburb outside of St. Louis. Jill’s nephew Nick was turning three. It was a family celebration in a tall house on the edge of the woods. We ate lots of delicious homemade food, and everyone gathered around to hear us play some music. It was cozy and old timey, even little Nick settled down to enjoy the songs with his family. TJ teared up a little and later confided, “That’s what it’s all about man! Family, friends, and music! You guys are great!” We drove home in the dark watching for the deer that were all around.
Saturday we all woke up late and with plans to take it easy. Toward evening we drove to Eureka, MO, an beautiful suburb outside of St. Louis. Jill’s nephew Nick was turning three. It was a family celebration in a tall house on the edge of the woods. We ate lots of delicious homemade food, and everyone gathered around to hear us play some music. It was cozy and old timey, even little Nick settled down to enjoy the songs with his family. TJ teared up a little and later confided, “That’s what it’s all about man! Family, friends, and music! You guys are great!” We drove home in the dark watching for the deer that were all around.
We spent another night hanging out in the basement. I heard many stories about Casey and TJ as teenagers in Oklahoma City, smashing pumpkins, setting things on fire, and wearing in-your-face punk rock fashions. It was fun. The beer refrigerator was running low. In Missouri you can go to any twenty-four hour grocery store and buy beer, wine, whiskey, and hummus. Whatever you want, whenever you want. It was shocking for a couple of Okies.
Again we watched movies until Casey was the last one standing.
Again we watched movies until Casey was the last one standing.
Late Sunday morning I twisted Casey’s arm and we went to the Missouri Botanical Garden, which would have taken days to fully explore. I enjoyed walking around looking at all the amazing plants and trees with my buddy on a sunny day. Afterward we went to check out the Handlebar since we were invited to play there.
It is in the Grove District, which reminded us of Oklahoma’s Plaza District plus the 39th Strip rolled into one. There are colorful contemporary murals everywhere, fun bars like the Atomic Cowboy, trendy coffee shops, art spaces, tattoo parlors, skateboard shops, and lots of rainbow flags. The Grove is a small creative community recently birthed amidst rundown, broken, boarded up old brick townhouses.
Inside the Handlebar we quickly figured out there was a bicycle theme. It was a hip space, with a courtyard, covered in funky murals. At four in the afternoon it was pretty dead, so we decided to relax and enjoy a few drinks before we dropped in on TJ’s family for Sunday Dinner.
It is in the Grove District, which reminded us of Oklahoma’s Plaza District plus the 39th Strip rolled into one. There are colorful contemporary murals everywhere, fun bars like the Atomic Cowboy, trendy coffee shops, art spaces, tattoo parlors, skateboard shops, and lots of rainbow flags. The Grove is a small creative community recently birthed amidst rundown, broken, boarded up old brick townhouses.
Inside the Handlebar we quickly figured out there was a bicycle theme. It was a hip space, with a courtyard, covered in funky murals. At four in the afternoon it was pretty dead, so we decided to relax and enjoy a few drinks before we dropped in on TJ’s family for Sunday Dinner.
The other patrons were colorful people. One guy in particular caught our eye. He was wearing no shirt, just a vest that had one long sleeve, Mad Max Style. An alert, dark dog followed him around attentively. He had a Mohawk, his thick dark hair went far down his back. I said to Casey, “How is it legal for that guy to be wearing an axe on his belt?” Casey answered, “That’s not an axe, that’s a hatchet, but it looks like that’s an axe in his bag there.” Sure enough there was an axe handle sticking out of his backpack. Casey said, “I gotta give him credit. He’s really going for it, I think that’s cool.”
We arrived at the home of TJ’s parents, Linda and Mike, at dusk.
We arrived at the home of TJ’s parents, Linda and Mike, at dusk.
They live in a brick town-home that is older than the state of Oklahoma. They were happy to see Casey, whom they’d had at their dinner table plenty when he was a boy. There were eight of us adults, one baby and one toddler. We ate lots of spaghetti and talked. Then ate lots of oatmeal cookies, and talked more. Mike showed us his bar in the basement, it was just as polished and classic as TJ’s. Casey and I got to try some rare and expensive whiskeys, which were heavenly-smooth.
TJ made a fire out back by a splashing fountain. His older brother Phil and his son showed up. We all gathered around the fire and Casey and I played tunes. It was lovely.
On the way home we passed by the Handlebar, if it was rocking we’d stop in and play, but on a Sunday night it was mostly empty. I said, “Oh well, I guess we didn’t make much of a splash in St. Louis. We were naïve to think it could be so easy.” And Casey answered, “Yeah, but I’m happy with how it turned out. It was more important to hang out with TJ and go with the flow. This trip wasn’t so much about the music, it was more about friendship.”
In the mood for more on St. Louis? We recommend St. Patrick's in St. Louis 2015
TJ made a fire out back by a splashing fountain. His older brother Phil and his son showed up. We all gathered around the fire and Casey and I played tunes. It was lovely.
On the way home we passed by the Handlebar, if it was rocking we’d stop in and play, but on a Sunday night it was mostly empty. I said, “Oh well, I guess we didn’t make much of a splash in St. Louis. We were naïve to think it could be so easy.” And Casey answered, “Yeah, but I’m happy with how it turned out. It was more important to hang out with TJ and go with the flow. This trip wasn’t so much about the music, it was more about friendship.”
In the mood for more on St. Louis? We recommend St. Patrick's in St. Louis 2015