This Christmas, Casey and I hitched a ride to Bisbee, Arizona. The plan was to visit Aunty Em, a retiree from Las Vegas. Bisbee is a long drive from Oklahoma City. It took three days. Five family members were packed in the car: my parents, son August, and us. On the way we visited Midland TX, Carlsbad Caverns, Las Cruces NM, and Portal AZ, before we reached the old mining town.
 Festive Family Dinner with Aunt Carol & Uncle Brian Midland TX |  The Biggs Family at the Stupendous Carlsbad Caverns |
Coronado National Forest, Portal Arizona
Weaving through the desert hills, we found Aunty Em’s house, and she fed us a savory dinner. Once the sun set, Casey and I went in search of nightlife and musical adventures in the old town.
A hundred years ago the Copper Queen Mine was booming, and Bisbee was the biggest town between St. Louis and San Francisco. The mine closed in the 70s, and the hippies moved in. Already charming, the town became whimsical and super quirky. Sadly, the deep and wide Lavender Pit, mountains of tailings, and heavy metal contamination mar the landscape. But in its favor, the climate is lovely year round. At around 5,500 feet, Bisbee residents keep their windows open most of the year.
A hundred years ago the Copper Queen Mine was booming, and Bisbee was the biggest town between St. Louis and San Francisco. The mine closed in the 70s, and the hippies moved in. Already charming, the town became whimsical and super quirky. Sadly, the deep and wide Lavender Pit, mountains of tailings, and heavy metal contamination mar the landscape. But in its favor, the climate is lovely year round. At around 5,500 feet, Bisbee residents keep their windows open most of the year.
 Charming Bisbee photo by F. Clarkson |  The toxic Lavender Pit -bigsage.com |  Tailings. 50 years, still nothing grows here |
Sunday Dec 22, we parked in Old Bisbee on the narrow street in front of the Stock Exchange Saloon. Casey hailed a man cooking at an outdoor grill high on an iron balcony. Unbeknownst to us, that man, Marcus Pierce, chef at the Stock Exchange Saloon, was the perfect host for two random Okie musicians.
He invited us up, and we discovered musical instruments were scattered all over the storefront kitchen. We immediately started jamming! His girlfriend Amber snapped a video.
He invited us up, and we discovered musical instruments were scattered all over the storefront kitchen. We immediately started jamming! His girlfriend Amber snapped a video.
Marcus closed down the kitchen and we set off in search of friendship, music, and beer. First we tried the Copper Queen Hotel. It was no good, there was a raucous Celtic jam, twenty or so people hammering away. Next we had a drink at St. Elmo's Bar. The crowd was rowdy, it actually took us three days to work up the nerve to crash that place. Then we met Jose at the Old Bisbee Brewing Company. He was hosting a private party, and asked us to come back and play Christmas afternoon. So we moved up the gulch to The Grand Saloon. The porridge was just right there ! We settled in and got to music making!
Our first night was spectacular thanks to Marcus, Grand Saloon bartender Chrissy Alonze, and a lively cast of locals and tourists. It was a warm and fuzzy feel-good holiday moment.
Grand Saloon, Christmas Time, Bisbee
The next day the family visited Naco, a border town just up the road from Bisbee. As we neared town the 14 foot steel fence dividing Naco, Arizona and Naco, Sonora was a visual slap in the face. I hear the Mexico side is decorated with colorful murals, but the US side is just plain ugly. Some are offended and others comforted by the wall. We thought it was sad.
The American side of the wall at Naco. Tombstone was not far and we headed there. It’s famous for the OK Corral and Wyatt Earp. It’s all about tourism and Western Memorabilia now. If you like gunfight reenactments, go there.
After that it was naptime, card games with the family, and food! Late that night Auntie Em told us the romantic and melancholy story of a celebrated local music couple, Nowhere Man and Whiskey Girl.
After that it was naptime, card games with the family, and food! Late that night Auntie Em told us the romantic and melancholy story of a celebrated local music couple, Nowhere Man and Whiskey Girl.
Last fall Whiskey Girl’s health fell apart and she died at a hospital. Her husband Nowhere Man was unwilling to go on without her. He bought a gun on the way home from the hospital, and committed suicide. It gave us a shiver to hear that bummer tale.
C-Sharp, Marcus, Minna After a quiet night we awoke to Christmas Eve Tuesday! It was a bright sunny day, just like all the others we’d seen in Bisbee. We went straight to the balcony of the Stock Exchange. We serenaded the townfolk strolling below us. In between cooking hamburgers on the grill, Markus joined us. It was clear he’d played a lot of country and rockabilly music. He’s a fantastic doghouse slap-bass player.
 Porch Jam | Many delightful locals came up to meet us and encourage us to move to Bisbee. Some notables were the colorful folk-artist Philip Estrada, who carried a painted doll on a broom. C-Sharp, an original hippy from California who jammed with us on harmonica. The sunshine, the friends, the music, the street scene, it was the perfect afternoon. |  Casey & Philip Estrada |
We swung back around to Aunty Em’s house for her annual Christmas Eve Tamale Dinner. She had about twenty friends over. Afterward we played again at the Grand Saloon for the Christmas Eve stragglers. When we returned to the house every one was snuggled up watching reruns of ‘Lost in Space.’ It was very comfy and sweet.
Jose, Minna, Dale Old Bisbee Brewing Co Christmas Day!! Aunty Em had another Christmas dinner party and even more people attended this time. Casey and I played some songs for them and saw many smiles. We ducked out early and went to the Old Bisbee Brewing Company. The bar was full of good cheer and good beer. Our favorite was the Copper City Ale. The owner, Dale, bought us a beer and sat close to the music. He thanked us warmly for being there.
Next we decided to tackle St. Elmo’s, the oldest bar in town and maybe all of AZ, full of rough and rowdy locals. It had intimidated us on our first night in town, but we were resolved. No chickening out.
The people there were very kind and loved the music. There was nothing to be afraid of. Having been in town for a few days we were starting to remember faces and names. It was fun to see familiar faces in the audiences, especially Naomi, Frank, Lisa and Ariel. Thanks guys!
The people there were very kind and loved the music. There was nothing to be afraid of. Having been in town for a few days we were starting to remember faces and names. It was fun to see familiar faces in the audiences, especially Naomi, Frank, Lisa and Ariel. Thanks guys!
St. Elmos, Bisbee At the end of our set, Casey passed out flyers, like he always does. He got the typical heckling, “That fiddler is awesome, but you need a little work.” To which he replied, “I’m just the promoter.” But this time a wise and kind voice interjected, “Do what you do best!” Casey turned around to see a smiling Santa Claus-like man with a hand full of cash for Casey, which he accepted saying, “Thank you! Merry Christmas to all!”
Next morning very early we said our goodbyes to Aunty Em and Bisbee and set sail for the grueling drive back. This time we were in a hurry and didn’t stop much. We parted ways with my parents at the train station in Fort Worth TX. They were traveling on, but it was time for us to go back to OKC.
We boarded the Heartland Flyer, which clearly could have been named the Fartland Flyer. Whew! We made it back to OKC Friday night, and caught a ride home from the Bricktown train station with Casey’s cousin Cory! Home again!
Next morning very early we said our goodbyes to Aunty Em and Bisbee and set sail for the grueling drive back. This time we were in a hurry and didn’t stop much. We parted ways with my parents at the train station in Fort Worth TX. They were traveling on, but it was time for us to go back to OKC.
We boarded the Heartland Flyer, which clearly could have been named the Fartland Flyer. Whew! We made it back to OKC Friday night, and caught a ride home from the Bricktown train station with Casey’s cousin Cory! Home again!
Transcendental Murals - why we love Bisbee
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